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  #11  
Old 22nd December 2020, 01:30 AM
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MartyNL MartyNL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Sell View Post
Thanks for comments.
Just ilfostop then fotospeed odourless fixer.
Washer is a paterson washer for fibre paper.
Regards
Bill
Hi Bill, it sounds like you have the Paterson auto print washer which agitates prints by a rocking motion, created by the flow of water? If so, can you confirm that the rocking motion functions correctly, there are films on the internet showing it in operation. I watched one once, when I looked into these washers.

Looking at the pic you uploaded and your comments;
1.the edges of the print look less affected than the middle
2. prolonged washing helps
3. the pattern of the dividers on prints
All give me the impression that the washing process needs attention.

So if you can effectively rule out the water volume, flow and temperature as well as print agitation then I would also try adding a HCA bath step to your print toning process, as standard.

If the problem persists, then you will need to go through each step of your process methodically and meticulously.

Let us know how you get on.
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Last edited by MartyNL; 22nd December 2020 at 01:34 AM.
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  #12  
Old 22nd December 2020, 09:28 AM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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Hca wouldn't help with RC paper, but for Toning the MG5 I use the Fotospeed toner bath at full strenth with MG5, with pretty much any other paper both RC and FB paper I would use the toner at 1/2 strenth as well, but for some reason 1/2 strength will not work, so, wash after processing for 10 minutes, bleach and again wash for 10 minutes,then tone and again wash for 10 minutes, this is what I have been doing in my trials for sepia toning the MG5, and it seems to work well with the pearl surface, but with the MG 5 you need to be a biut more careful than with other RC papers, the biggests problems I had was without complete washing the 5 would sometimes not tone properly, and leave untoned arears on the print, but following the regime above the prints tone beautifuly, almost as good as FB paper,
Richard
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  #13  
Old 22nd December 2020, 09:55 AM
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Hi Richard, I always thought it was good practice to add a HCA step between the fixing and the toning stage in order to avoid staining of prints?
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Old 22nd December 2020, 11:56 AM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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Hi Richard, I always thought it was good practice to add a HCA step between the fixing and the toning stage in order to avoid staining of prints?
I always use HCA with FB paper, but fixer washes out so quickly with RC that I find an extended wash is fine, Even following Ilfords advice for RC they say no need for HCA before wash, if you think about it the Fix, which is the biggest problem only sits on the surface of the paper, where with FB paper it soaks into the paper, and HCA converts the fixer into a chemical that washes out of the FB paper easier, I have never used HCA with RC paper, just washed a lot longer the the Ilford statement of 2 minutes, 10 to 15 minutes should get rid of any fixer just sitting on the surface, I have, very rarely, had a black mark on a toned print, but then again I have had the same thing thing on FB prints that have been in HCA, sometimes the print doesn't wash properly, hence an extended wash, I have even washed RC prints in a home made washer, ( an old 12x16 print tray with holes drilled in the bottom) and it works fine, as long as the print is washed for 10 minutes then there shouldn't be a problem, especialy in the patterson washer, which I have used for a few years now
Richard
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  #15  
Old 23rd December 2020, 08:34 PM
Bill Sell Bill Sell is offline
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thanks for that i will fix in normal fix and give it a go.
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  #16  
Old 31st December 2020, 08:10 PM
Bill Sell Bill Sell is offline
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Yes you are correct. i refixed them with Ilford rapid fixer and the staining went.
Once again thanks for you help.
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