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  #11  
Old 31st January 2009, 01:47 PM
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Bill Bill is offline
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Hi Jack and Welcome to the Forum.
If you like Olympus (I have 3) have a look for an OM20. Best of both worlds with fully automatic or fully manual as you wish and relatively cheap.
With regard to loading 120 film I would re-iterate, the reels must be fully dry. I use a hair dryer on mine before loading and don't have any problems.
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  #12  
Old 31st January 2009, 02:05 PM
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Trevor Crone Trevor Crone is offline
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Hello Jack and welcome to the Forum.

I have a couple of OM1's which I purchased second hand only a few years ago......such classic cameras.

Re. loading 120 film onto reels, I use the Paterson ones and I find it much easier to pull the film rather then push it into the groves of the reel.
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  #13  
Old 31st January 2009, 03:21 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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Hi jack and welcome to the forum. Try patterson reels for 120, they must be dry and I lubricate the groves with a pencil, just run the lead around the groves and hey presto the film, 120 or 35mm just seems to slip in without any problems, Richard.
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  #14  
Old 31st January 2009, 07:31 PM
j8kkb j8kkb is offline
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Thanks again so much info so quickly

Jack
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  #15  
Old 31st January 2009, 09:35 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Hi and welcome. I sympathise with you. I still dread 120 loading compared to 35mm. It's partly a confidence thing. My 35mm can be introduced onto the reel in daylight so no fiddling with it to get it into the grooves in the dark whereas 120 has to be all in the dark.

Like the Nova system, Durst reels have a mechanism that fits on to the reel through which you lead the film then fit it under a clip on the central axle of the reel. Once it's there it is simply wound on by a crank but pushing the begining of the film under the clip in the reel's axle can be tricky.

If there is any secret. apart from practice, it is remembering that the first few inches contain nothing important and a bit of rough and readiness in handling isn't harmful.

I used to try loading from the rear i.e. the end you come to first, letting the backing paper fall away as I went but it became very messy with film and backing paper in proximity of each other. Now I strip the backing paper away at the start and load from the masking tape end.

There's always trial runs with a wasted 120 film. I think that daylight/ redlight/ redlight with cover over it until there's amost no light is a sequence worth trying as well.

Best of luck

Mike
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  #16  
Old 2nd February 2009, 06:00 PM
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photomi7ch photomi7ch is offline
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Welcome Jack,

I do the same as Trevor I find it easier to pull the film on and then continue as usual.

I like the idea of using a pencil to lub the grooves Richard I'll give it a try I've been getting kinking on the negs recently. It can be quite painful.
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  #17  
Old 2nd February 2009, 06:04 PM
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Welcome aboard Jack!

I also use the trick of pulling the film onto the reel as far as possible before starting the twisting action. Grab the end between finger and thumb (you should have at least an inch of leader to play with before the 1st image on the film) and feed it as far round the reel as you can. Once started it is much the same as 35mm but being much wider, and hence floppier, it is more difficult to get started.

Have fun, Bob.
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  #18  
Old 2nd February 2009, 10:29 PM
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Mark Burley Mark Burley is offline
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Hi Jack, Welcome to FADU.
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