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> Farmers Reducer. |
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#11
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Farmer's
I have looked at the websites for both Silverprint and Firstcall are either being greedy or selling it at a loss. Kits with enough to make 4 x 250cc is either £6.58 incl post by Silverprint, or compared to very nearly £18 by Firstcall not including post.
Both are selling the same kit. Last edited by John King; 14th November 2021 at 10:00 AM. |
#12
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I bought a pound of ferri in the previous century and it will possibly be my lifetime's supply. I use it mostly in what Time Rudman calls a "sparkle bath," to correct for my inattention in exposing the paper properly (slightly overexposing, in other words not allowing for the drydown effect.)
Some notes on this use: A précis of my experience, some docs I've downloaded and books I've read for adding a bit of sparkle or counteracting inadequate drydown allowance: Farmer‘s reducer R-4a, which is made up as follows: Solution A: Potassium Ferricyanide 75g in 1 Litre water (i.e. 7.5% soln.) Solution B: Sodium Thiosulphate 240g in 1 litre water For use: 100ml A + 100ml B + 1 Litre or 1½ Litre water. Swiftly slide in dry print. Agitate rapidly 10 – 15 seconds. This is old advice and it is said that modern papers require more dilute treatment and that is my experience with Ilford Multigrade. (This for dull slightly dark prints that have been a bit overexposed under the enlarger, i.e. inadequate drydown allowance. I use the reducer about half that strength.) Also it is said that warm tone papers require much less also. I have used it with Ilford Multigrade Warmtone (which I found to be barely warmtone in ID-78) and maybe it did need a bit less, I can't really remember. What is important is not to leave it too long: be ready to put it in fresh running water fast. You can always put it back for a bit more. Remember that drydown effect still happens at this stage. Also good washing afterwards is essential (thiosulphate). Also, Very Weak reducer will tend to affect deeper tones as well, so don't try to use it very weak in order to make the timing less critical. (This is disputed by some.) For bleaching in order to tone the quantities and timing will be very different of course. |
#13
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If I start using it again, it looks as if I will have a bit of experimentation to do - fun unbounded!
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#14
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Quote:
For the kit that you mention John, I see it priced at £6.98 + p/p at £5.92 on their website = £12.90, but you can get it on ebay slightly cheaper from them(?!?) at just £12.00: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154626350...0AAOSwuRxhDbO8 But on the other hand, a little goes a long way when you mix it yourself, so you might also consider 50 grammes of it at £6.95 including p/p, which is a cheaper price and you could then buy a larger amount if you use it regularly. This amount will make a lot more than the amount quoted for the kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154673196...wAAOSwSxNheoSE !!!And just to repeat a warning that I've read. DON'T let pot ferri anywhere near acetic acid as it will produce a highly toxic cyanide gas!!! Terry S |
#16
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It is not as easy as you think to get hydrogen cyanide from Ferricyanide. Not with a bit of vinegar, you need real strong acid.
Nevertheless, it is a good idea keeping acid and ferricyanide separated. In my younger days I learned the profession of an electro plater, and eventual I made a university diploma in that field. There are lots of cyanides when galvanizing. But ferricyanide is precipitated and rather stabile. |
#17
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So it is best not to be near my Friday Fish and Chips then?
I will order some from Silverprint because even paying for postage it is still cheaper than Firstcall. |
#18
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Our local photo supplier (Vanbar, Melbourne) has potassium ferricyanide for $44 per kilogram, so it doesn't have to be expensive (Australian dollars, not real dollars).
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#19
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our Pentax Pete made a YouTube video on how to use it
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