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#11
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Hi John
I<y last bottle of Adox, which was a while ago, turned dark brown byy the end, I have just opened a bew bottle which is already going dark, as did Agfa Rodinal, \i have been using the RO9/one shot soft pac version for a long time, which I believe to be the same as Agfa, and that also turnsdark brown/black by the end Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#12
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> you should not do with Rodinal is use constant agitation, (Rotary) that destroys the adjacency effect for which it is famed.
That is not true. You may use continious agitation as I do and you get a good adjacency effect.It is very clear from the chemical viewpoint, but there exist really measurings from Richard J Henry. Henry was a retired analytical chemist. He could buy a lot of measuring instruments form his company. In the years of his retirement, he measured everything what could be measured in bw photography. His book Controls in black and white photography is a very useful source. Material may be outdated, but the effect remain the same. If you try to buy it lock for second edition. I give a few sentences form his book, p. 214. Henry's machine mixer was the kind used in chemical laboratories. You cannot reach this rigorous degree of agitation with manual means. Last edited by Uwe Pilz; 16th February 2022 at 03:11 PM. |
#13
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Sorry Uwe, I will stick with Agfa's definition and instructions should I ever go back to using Rodinal.
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#14
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I wonder if Schwalberg did a similar test with equally good measuring instruments and found his results to be different?
Mike |
#15
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I guess it's time to answer a few questions.35mm negatives are generally well exposed using my Minolta X-500, but 120 film is a bit more like guesswork at times with my Flexaret VI. I love Rodinal or, to be more accurate Foma's R09, because I tend to photograoh in spurts and months may pass between developing films and the old bottle of Rodinal never expires and I'm a tight-fisted curmudgeon. For the time being, I think I'll carry on with the 1:50 dilution.
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#16
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gain sorry Uwe, but I completely disagree with the above,in the last imfo leaflet that came with a bottle of Agfa rodinal, from around 82 or 3 thay amend to gentle agitation fort 1 minite then 2 or 3 gentle inversions every 30 seconds I have done up to 6 gentle inversions every minute, which does work as well, but when I have experimented with vigorous agitation the edge effect is very much reduced, and I imagine with continuous agitation the effect would be lost, Agfa always states gentle agitation needed for Rodinal, and after 50+years I agree with them
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#17
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I get clear adjacency effects with BarryThornton's two-bath developer if I do minimal agitation in the second bath (invert every 15 s for first min, then every min thereafter), but not if I invert every 15s throughout. In this case, the developer is in the emulsion (from bath 1) and the alkali is in the surrounding liquid (bath 2). I may be wrong, but I don't think this really bears out what Uwe's source is saying?
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#18
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It's time for some embarrasment emoticons. I mixed up my Foma R09 as always, noting some significant floculent precipitation when I diluted 1:50 and went ahead. Nett result, totally clear 120 film as if not exposed. Time to try a new bottle to see if it's gone off. Maybe not used in 6 months.
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#19
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Quote:
I now, (and recommend it highly) put a strip of film into the diluted developer to see if it turns black. This lets you know the developer is working at least, and can avoid totally blank films, as you have experienced. I just hope there were no unrepeatable shots on the film? Terry S |
#20
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Uwe's quote compares constant agitation with quite frequent agitation. Those of us looking for adjacency effects use far, far less agitation.
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