Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free:   AG Photographic   The Imaging Warehouse   Process Supplies   RH Designs   Second-hand Darkroom Supplies  

Notices

Go Back   Film and Darkroom User > General discussions > Photography in general

  ***   Click here for the FADU 2015/2014 Yearbooks   ***

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 7th July 2022, 05:13 AM
MargaretKelly MargaretKelly is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 1
Default Enlarger issue

So I'm printing these 4x5 negatives on an Omega D3. The lens is a Schneider 135mm, and I have the proper AF rail and everything. I'm having the greatest trouble printing 4x5. The paper is expired Agfa RC, and it may be difficult to use at times, but I've gotten the hang of it. Long exposure durations are required.

The print on the right was taken in 20 seconds at f11 with a grade 1 1/2 filter. I like it, but I felt I needed more contrast, so I shot a grade 4 on the left at 36sec f11.

Parts of my prints are getting these double pictures for extended periods of time; I'd just assume I bumped something, but it's not over the entire image, and it's constantly in the same area! I have three distinct versions of the higher contrast print with variable degrees of blurriness, all of which are largely in the lower middle.

Does anyone have any ideas on what's causing this? Is it because the heat from the bulb warped the negative or something? I've wasted so much paper as a result of that!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 9th July 2022, 10:22 AM
B&W Neil's Avatar
B&W Neil B&W Neil is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Cornwall
Posts: 4,264
Default

Margaret,

I can't see the prints you refer to - can you re post?

Heat popping the neg can be a problem but usually only with long exposures. Also Agfa paper has been gone for a long while now so unless your Agfa was stored in a freezer it will probably be hard to print with.

If you knock the enlarger during the exposure it could well produce the effect you describe. Also if you move the neg in the carrier during exposure the same could apply.

Neil.
__________________
"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle

Neil Souch

Last edited by B&W Neil; 9th July 2022 at 10:47 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 9th July 2022, 11:16 AM
MartyNL's Avatar
MartyNL MartyNL is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: based in The Netherlands
Posts: 3,341
Default

Hello Margaret and welcome to the forum.
As a new member, images that you post won't be visible until after you've made 4 or 5 posts and will need to be posted again or made visible by a forum moderator.

Here's my take on things so far;
1. A bumped neg = sharp images but misaligned images.
2. A popped or loose neg = image sharp in one area and becoming progressively unsharp in other and warping of the image.
3. Focus creep from the lens/neg stage = images becoming progressively unsharp and images decreasing in size.
4. Focus creep at the head/column stage = images becoming progressively unsharp and images decreasing in size.

Admittedly, I'm not familiar with your enlarger, so it could be a combination of the above or none of the above! Hopefully, when we get to see some prints, all will become clear. And in the meantime, get your posts up to around 5!
__________________
MartyNL

“Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action
is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.”
- Minor White, 1950

Last edited by MartyNL; 9th July 2022 at 11:24 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 9th July 2022, 11:46 AM
Terry S Terry S is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southend on Sea, Essex, England, UK
Posts: 3,797
Default

Hi Margaret and welcome to the forum.

I agree with the comments so far, and personally I would bin the old paper you have, or at least save it for experiments a bit further down the line. Also make sure you have fresh chemicals. I'm saying this, without knowledge of your experience in a darkroom, but I'm presuming you must have some, as you're shooting(?) and attempting to print 5 x 4 negatives.

Also, I don't think you have managed to upload any images at all, for even when a new poster with under 5 posts uploads, there's normally an icon with a message that states the files have to be approved by an administrator on the site.

Hopefully you'll be back soon with some pictures for us all to look at and some good advice can be given.

Terry S
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 9th July 2022, 12:08 PM
Nat Polton Nat Polton is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 758
Default

A simple contact print would show if it is a faulty negative or enlarger problem.

I use my old and very much out of date papers on contact sheets for my 120 and 35 films. I don't mind if it is less contrasty or spotty when developed, they are only used to find the negative I require.

Good Luck and welcome.
__________________
It will all be over by Christmas.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 9th July 2022, 01:25 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is online now
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Daventry, Northants
Posts: 8,969
Default

Hi Margaret and welcome. Here's a question that I am interested in and your reply will increase your post count

What 4x5 camera do you have?

Thanks

Mike
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 9th July 2022, 08:42 PM
John King John King is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: County Durham
Posts: 3,319
Default Agfa Resin Coated.

Is this a variable contrast paper or a graded paper? You only call it 'RC' paper. but not not RC Variable Contrast. If it is the former, using contrast MG filters will have absolutely no effect at all, it will just make printing times very long.

This paper whatever it is will be well out of date (at least 12 years old) and not a great deal of use. So as someone else suggested get some fresh, but you can keep the old stuff for experimenting with.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10th July 2022, 09:58 AM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Glasgow, Scotland.
Posts: 2,668
Default

The OP is using large format film, and appears to be deliberately choosing to use old paper, so I am assuming she knows what she is doing. I had a look at the enlarger on the KHB Photographix website. It’s an autofocus model, and quite complicated in design. The paper surface has to be one inch above the baseboard for the autofocus to work. It would be worth checking that the easel is at that height, and is parallel to the negative stage in all directions. The autofocus rail has to be matched to the lens. Both should have the same serial number. I would, however, suggest trying a different lens, without using autofocus, to see if the original lens is at fault.
I think I am correct in saying that there is a delay, perhaps 48 hours, before a new members first post is visible. I’m not suggesting this is a bad thing, but I think it may sometimes cause the situation where we see a new post, but the poster never returns. This person was obviously looking for an answer to a specific problem, and may have found it elsewhere. It would be nice if they came back to let us know, but they may not have been looking to interact with a forum on a regular basis.
Alex


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12th July 2022, 01:27 AM
Stocky Stocky is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 276
Default

Can the enlarger be focused manually? Is everything tight, so no creeping?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12th July 2022, 06:17 AM
John King John King is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: County Durham
Posts: 3,319
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmuir View Post
The OP is using large format film, and appears to be deliberately choosing to use old paper, so I am assuming she knows what she is doing. I had a look at the enlarger on the KHB Photographix website. It’s an autofocus model, and quite complicated in design. The paper surface has to be one inch above the baseboard for the autofocus to work. It would be worth checking that the easel is at that height, and is parallel to the negative stage in all directions. The autofocus rail has to be matched to the lens. Both should have the same serial number. I would, however, suggest trying a different lens, without using autofocus, to see if the original lens is at fault.
I think I am correct in saying that there is a delay, perhaps 48 hours, before a new members first post is visible. I’m not suggesting this is a bad thing, but I think it may sometimes cause the situation where we see a new post, but the poster never returns. This person was obviously looking for an answer to a specific problem, and may have found it elsewhere. It would be nice if they came back to let us know, but they may not have been looking to interact with a forum on a regular basis.
Alex
Yes you can get away with it IF it was a MG paper but there is no suggestion that it is. The OP mentions changing filters to try to increase the contrast but it does not appear to have worked. Non MG paper will not respond to non MG filters, but as it was said the exposure time increased considerably which is exactly as I would expect it to.
Reply With Quote
Reply
Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free:   AG Photographic   The Imaging Warehouse   Process Supplies   RH Designs   Second-hand Darkroom Supplies  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ikoflex issue PeteK Photography in general 8 19th February 2022 03:26 PM
Ag 64 - The Memorial Issue Paul Mitchell News and Announcements 3 17th July 2011 09:02 AM
Focus issue VickiB Darkroom 27 16th November 2010 01:03 AM


All times are GMT. The time now is 10:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.