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giant print process
hi
I am planning to make some giant photograms and would like advice on the best way to process they are for an art project for my son for school so do not need to be perfect but i still want to do a good job I have a 30" roll and would like to do 30x60" prints how would i go about processing them without a set of 30x60 trays ? i have heard of people using troughs how is this done i will need a lot of chemicals - what is the most economical way thanks robin |
#2
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I made a couple of trays with cheap timber and then lined them with plastic film, held in place with thumb tacks. I used a now defunct Agfa print developer called Metinol which worked slowly, a definite advantage. You will find other formulas or dilution advice that will be similar.
An alternative is single tray processing, tipping out developer into a bucket and then filling with the next processing liquid. But I'd have to guess that a 30" x 60" print would need a tray at least 36" x 66" internally and that might be very tricky to lift and pour. For some thoughts on single tray processing, see several articles at Lloyd Erlick's site: http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/technicl.html |
#3
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Do you know this video?
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Hi Robin,
You could approach the tutors on your nearest Art College photography course. They are usually geared up to make very large prints and would solve your equipment and chemicals problem. Explaining the educational nature of the favor and a small contribution towards the chemicals usually does the trick. You can buy a suitable length of black plastic drainpipe and end caps from a DIY source to transport your prints to and from the college after exposing/printing them. Might be worth a try? Good luck with the project. John |
#5
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We used to do large prints at work and used to spray the chemicals onto the paper, but then we had the facilities.
A more friendly way for a home darkroom is to make a trough and see-saw the paper through the chemistry or a full sized frame lined with polythene (as Stoky suggests) I've one both. Using sponges to apply the chemistry cuts the volumes needed and also ensures more even development etc.. Ian |
#6
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hi robin when making large prints what you need is a trough as wide as the paper about 30" inch long, and what you do is put the paper in the developer trough rolled up and roll the paper one way then roll the paper the other way backwards and forwards until its developed and then the same in stop bath and then fix .the only piece of the paper you get to see is the strip between the rolls the chemical will not have to be to deep about 4" or 5" inch deep .
if you practise on a giant poster they come rolled up take the edge and start rolling up one end as you unroll the other end when you get to the end, roll back again . when taking out of each chemical lift one side of the roll up to drain . I also worked in a darkroom late 60s early 70s and we used to make massive prints mostly for advertising we used to pin the paper to the wall and we had a big durst enlarger on a trolley that run on railway tracks that were in the floor . |
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If you go for the 'roll-up' method, suggested by Big Paul, how about using plastic garden troughs? (The ones I've bought don't have any drainage holes). Alternatively, what about lining the polystyrene troughs that you get for wallpaper decorating?
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Go to your local builders merchant and buy 3 lengths of 1 metre long plastic guttering and 6 stop ends with the adhesive to stick and seal them to each end of the lengths of guttering. Using some rough timber make supports to stabilise the troughs while processing. I used 2 lengths of 2 inch timber and cut slots in to match the shape of the guttering so that they stood on the darkroom bench as you would place trays next to each other when making smaller prints. Fill each trough with dev stop and fix and process the paper bt putting one end of the rolled up paper in the chemical and pass it through by rolling it from your left hand to the right hand. Develop by inspection for the paper is never fully submerged in the developer. Stop by using water and partially fix in the same way as the paper is developed then lay the print on the bench and using a sponge complete the fixing by washing the print. It's a little messy but it works. I made some 30" by 60" prints using this method just after I started making black and white prints many years ago and had a ball doing it and the prints have not stained or deteriorated. It is advisable to wear old clothes that you are prepared to bin when you are finished?????!!!!!!
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