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  #11  
Old 1st July 2014, 02:11 PM
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Domingo Domingo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry S View Post
Thanks to all for the continuing comments.
[...]
Thanks also for the simple recipe. It's not one that I have on my list that I have printed out that are formaldehyde free, so that gives me another one to try. Can you remember where you found this formula?
[...]
yes: it was on that facebook group too. A very nice guy there, Wada Naoki, has done some developer tests using these reagents but varying their proportions; he has some examples on his facebook gallery.

For example - 3:3:2:40, 1:1.2:1:25 (always HQ:SS:PB:SC).
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  #12  
Old 2nd July 2014, 09:22 AM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Thanks once again Domingo.

I will check out his gallery etc over the weekend.

Terry S
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  #13  
Old 20th July 2014, 11:22 AM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Default A few more questions please.

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All the developers I've tested are based in the HQ, SS, PB and SC relation. The last one, 2:2:1:20 grs./litre, is giving me about two hours of life in the tray and some "interesting" prints.
Thanks again for this formula Domingo. I have tried making up a few various formula's now and the one that you gave to me seems to work best with my paper = Formatone MG FB classic. Which papers do you use out of interest? (I can't remember if you've stated this already?)

I find that I have to waste 2 x sheets of 10 x 8 paper before I can then get a few good prints which I'm happy with. Is this the same for you?

So, can I put ANY paper through (thinking about using the cheapest that I have) the developer to mature it for use, rather than the more expensive lithable paper that I'm using?

Also, do you add any 'old brown' to mature it quicker and if so, how much do you add? I ask this as there are some formula's in Tim Rudman's book from other people, that say their formula's lith from the FIRST print and give up to four useable prints. This makes me wonder what the magical equation is for all of the chemicals, that makes these developer do this?

Thanks again,

Terry S
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  #14  
Old 21st July 2014, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Terry S View Post
Thanks again for this formula Domingo. I have tried making up a few various formula's now and the one that you gave to me seems to work best with my paper = Formatone MG FB classic. Which papers do you use out of interest? (I can't remember if you've stated this already?)
[...]
I'm really glad to be helpful.

If fresh paper, I use the Fomatone MG Classic 542 Chamois with, in my humble and inexpert opinion, gives nice but eclectic results. If non-fresh paper, I use some Agfa Brovira way expired, but those prints are yet unpresentable.

Quote:
[...]
I find that I have to waste 2 x sheets of 10 x 8 paper before I can then get a few good prints which I'm happy with. Is this the same for you?
[...]
to me it takes some more test strips to get what I want, but I think this is related to time (developer oxidation) and temperature (experts will give better advice) and I don't control exhaustively these parameters.

Quote:
[...]
So, can I put ANY paper through (thinking about using the cheapest that I have) the developer to mature it for use, rather than the more expensive lithable paper that I'm using?
[...]
I don't think so. Some papers are "lithable" and some others aren't, so I think those that are not "lithable" will produce no or tiny effect on the developer. But, again, better ask to the experts.

Tim Rudman is easily to contact through the email. I'm sure he will help you far better than me.

Quote:
[...]
Also, do you add any 'old brown' to mature it quicker and if so, how much do you add?
[...]
yes I do: about 50ml per litre.

I guess the magical equation has to be with controlling or improving or... developer's oxidation: that's the key.
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  #15  
Old 21st July 2014, 09:56 AM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Thank you once more Domingo for your answers.

Good point about contacting Tim Rudman. I have all of his lith books, so I will quickly browse / read them again for my answers and if not found I will email him. I have seen him answer many others questions on line so he seems very approachable as well as knowledgeable about this subject.

Terry S
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  #16  
Old 21st July 2014, 10:12 PM
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I woul say that when beginning with lith printing, buy a box of Fomatone paper, mix one developer, stick to those and try to get used to the variables of process - exposure, snatch point, exhaustion of developer... Then add another paper. Once you have all this "down", then start playing with additives, then adding a second developer, then toning...
In this order you should come to such an understaning of the process that it would be possible for you to get exactly those results that you fancy - but still have enough room for playing when desired.
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  #17  
Old 22nd July 2014, 10:51 AM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Yes, a good practice to follow Andreios and one which I follow and would also recommend for trying new things out = not just lith!

Terry S
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  #18  
Old 5th June 2021, 12:22 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Default Kodak D8 lith formula and Ilford MGV a possibility.

Resurrecting this link, as I'm back in the darkroom and mixing up various lith developer formulas, from raw chemicals. It's been a while, but taking a photographic degree got in the way for 3 years or so.

Just browsing and printing out formulas, a lot seems to have changed, with people now offering lithable papers and lith developers - https://www.moersch-photochemie.de/ and someone is
trying to develop a lith formula that will work with previously unlithable papers, including the new MGV papers: https://grainy.vision/

So, recently, has any one mixed up a lith developer from scratch and found that it worked with various papers, but especially an of the Ilford MG papers?

Also, has anyone bought and used any of the Moersch Easy Lith chemicals. He has a great site, that I need to sit down and read, and as well as having a good (sounding) lith developer with long tray life, he also stocks a lot of papers that he guarantees to work in the Easy Lith.

And finally, I have been experimenting mixing up various brews and with test strips at least, I am having promising results with the Kodak D8 formula at about 30C with RC MGV paper. As for this formula, I should have read the previous posts again, as it seems I said this before when I first started experimenting(!) but then again, that was before MGV was launched.

I'm hoping to get another session in the darkroom this weekend, so will report back again soon.

In the mean time has anyone any comments or answers to my questions above?

Many thanks one and all.

Terry S
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  #19  
Old 5th June 2021, 12:37 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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I am not a lith user so take this as simply my impression of Moersch Easylith from Photrio but it seems to get only positive comments there. I take no negative or none that I nave seen to be a very good sign on a site where there is nearly always at least one member who has negative or a "beware" comment to make

Mike
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  #20  
Old 1st August 2022, 12:53 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Just to update.

I'm still mixing formulas, when I have the time, but have also been using Moersch's 'Easy Lith', with Foma paper and the results can be great. I say 'can', as it depends an awful lot on the negative itself. Some just work much better than others.

As for the lith developer he sells, well, I can't fault it. It may seem expensive at first, but I bought the smallest set available to give it a go and I've done a LOT of sessions over the last year and I still have some left. When needed I will definitely be buying a larger bottle. It's highly dilutable and each session only uses a small amount, as I've been using 5" x 7" FB Foma paper in 5" x 7" trays. To keep it at a constant temperature of 30C, I bought a well priced electric food warmer, after a 'proper' tray warmer gave up on me after the paint started peeling and got rusty(!) and unsafe.

Terry S
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