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> Wotan Duka 50 Colour Safelight.Instructions. |
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#21
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I tried the second slider on my Duka50, and it does work. It’s action is not very precise, and I thought you may have to push it in, or perhaps pull it out slightly when moving it. What I did was put both to the minimum setting, put the stop to the required position and then pushed the main slider round. It was prevented them from going past the set output level. It’s a bit like the aperture on a preset lens, or some enlarging lenses. Opening the unit to look at the internal arrangement may clarify how the stop is meant to work. My unit is fixed on the ceiling, so I didn’t bother. I’ve never had any reason to alter the brightness during a session.
Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#22
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Twin sliders
To save Alex risking his neck getting the Duka down, I will try to explain it in words even I can understand.
The rear slider, the one with the ratchet has a moulded slot in the plastic which seems to be intended to catch the metal strip which is attached to the front slider and opens/closes the baffles (the one with the numbers) but mine just overrides this groove/slot and does nothing. It does not appear to be damaged in any way, just a bad fit/design. To be quite honest I cannot see the point of it being there. The main slider is relatively stiff anyway and unless you make a deliberate act to make it move, it will stay where it is. I have mine set on '9' for colour processing and full bore for B&W. I will try the test to see if I can get away with any more light adjustment when I use colour, I have never had to do so before but it could be useful. |
#23
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Thanks both. I think that my stop must be a bad fit as well like John's. I tried to push it in and there was a difference in that it moved without any clicking noise but have moved it to position X to test it again it didn't matter what I did to it in terms of pushing or pulling it the front slider just sailed past the stop slider without even a hint of any stopping action
As John says the front slider is quite stiff and it is unlikely that you would accidentally move it. The only benefit I can think of and it was one I mentioned last night is that if you move the slider to 0 when using an analyser like the Colorstar or RH Designs Analyser Pro you can them move it back after taking analyser readings without needing to guess where the stop is. On top of the dome as the slider are, being able to see the setting numbers might be difficult or even impossible if the DUKA is well above your eye level On the other hand you can successfully feel where the rear stop slider is and pretty accurately line up the front slider so to that extent the stop still does its job Just one other thing to add and this is a piece of trivia really. My front slider settings go from 0 to 35 and not 50. I assume that 35 is wide open and all DUKA did on the 50 ( mine is a 10) was change the settings on the basis that 50 looks more logical than 35 but it is exactly the same size of opening Alex I had never seen the DUKA instructions until your yesterdays and it was very useful so thanks again. Is there any way you could place them in the manuals section or is there another way I can download them from your post? The instructions were giant size on my screen and I could not work out a way of reducing the pages in size and downloading Any one else can help here if they know what I need to do. Thanks Mike |
#24
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I’ll try, Mike, for the sake of all Duka’s and Divers in future. It will have to be tomorrow, though, as I’m making the Crostini for tonight’s online wine tasting....
Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#25
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A big thank you to every one for information and instructions.
I have finally got my hands on a Duka50 and in a couple of weeks will set to work learning colour printing again. Cheers all.
__________________
It will all be over by Christmas. |
#26
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Quote:
Thanks Mike |
#27
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Hello Mike it does work fine.
I just had the lamp open to have a look at how the mechanism works. The two sliders inside have the same part number on them, so I assume they are identical. The control knobs on the sliders are just held in place by two springy plastic prongs going inside the casing. It looks simple enough to swap the sliders around. Assuming that there is an out of sight pimple that engages in the case serrations, this might cure the lack of a ratchet mechanism. BIG WARNING . THE PLASTIC WILL POSSIBLY BE GETTING BRITTLE NOW, SO SQUEEZING THE PRONGS IN MAY CAUSE THEM TO SNAP. To my mind the stop mechanism is a clever minimalist piece of engineering. I would only risk squeezing the prongs if the mechanism definitely needed attention. Pressing on the aperture setting knob whilst setting, disengages the ratchet whilst it is re set and will possibly save on wear and tear to the old plastic. I hope this is of some use. Cheers.
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It will all be over by Christmas. |
#28
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Here is a scan of the settings that Kaiser recommended for various types of printing papers.
https://flic.kr/p/2of7i3F |
#29
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Quote:
For direct illumination b&w is OK at full power for 7 mins but RA4 needs minimum light and in this case the paper requires a drum development as the safe time is only 30 secs Assuming I have got this right then what is missing is (a) the safetime for both RA4 and b&w papers with the DUKA pointing to the ceiling. OK if you have 7 mins for b&w paper at full power they may have assumed that you do not need to know the safetime at a setting of 15 as why would you ever need more than 7 mins However for RA4 it would have been useful to know what the safetime is for the DUKA pointing to the ceiling and the illuminance setting at 15 Again I assume that even with the DUKA pointing at the ceiling no safetime is mentioned for RA4 as it is still not long enough to make tray developing safe However these are assumptions, are not spelled out and more importantly I might be wrong If anyone draws different findings from Nick's link then I'd be happy to see those findings Thanks Mike |
#30
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I have just posted DUKA 50 instructions under "Darkroom Manuals"
Cheers.
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