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> Art 300 paper sample? |
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#21
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P.S. Is Art 300 the stuff that is said to dry flatter than the rest of the FB range or am I thinking of another FB type? Thanks Mike |
#22
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It is much less curly than other Ilford FB papers I've used. The secret I've found is to wait until the paper is 90% dry (before it starts to curl), then press it under a couple of books for a few hours. Once flat it stays that way. |
#23
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It sounds as if the paper is flat after the wash and the Paterson squeegee for the surface water but once it starts to curl it is 90% dry so safe to place under books without any chance of it sticking to the books? Mike |
#24
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Yes, this paper goes very limp when wet. I think cool air drying would be ideal. The paper has never stuck yet when pressed, I often put it between book pages. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#25
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I have found it to dry very flat in comparison to normal FB papers and I just dry it upright in a Paterson drying rack.
The other thing about washing it, is that it likes to float at the top of the water line. I use a Paterson FB washer, so the prints are vertical in the washing water. I find I have to put a Nova clip at the top of the paper, not to hold it with the pins, but to hold it gently under the water surface. I've never seen this happen with any other paper but it's no big deal to sort out. And yes, Ilford recommend a quicker wash sequence than normal, so the use of a wash aid is greatly encouraged. Anyone using for the first time, I'm sure will love it. Terry S |
#26
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I pweg it onto a line, don't use a squzee just let it drip, and yes, it does dry fairly flat, when completely dry just a few hours under weight and it is flat as a pancake, being not convential paper but paper rag base it is bascily cloth, so it does go very limp, like Terry I use a Patterson FB washer, I find that I need to put some form of weight to keep it under the surface of the water, it likes to float up, these little quirks are due to the paper base, but like Terry anyone who hasn't used and tries it for the first time, or anyone who, like me regrets the passing of Kentmere Art classic paper will love using it, I know I did from the very first print I made on it 3 years ago, I bought a box to try it, after trying it I ordered another 2 boxes, yes it is expensive, but for the right negative it can't be beaten
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#27
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Thanks all. I had forgotten about the floating aspect but no matter as I would wash in a Nova vertical slot with a Nova clip so the paper will remain submerged while washing.
That leaves the wash-aid bit. I would have three choices 1. Use the fourth Nova slot for wash-aid instead of third and fourth slot for double fixing. 2. Empty the Nova wash slot after the 5 min wash and pour in wash-aid, then empty it again and revert to its washing function. 3. Use a tray for wash-aid Option 1 sounds the easiest but that sacrifices the "double fixing"If I went for option 3, I'd need to find a way of holding down the paper while in the wash-aid. My second Nova clip might be O.K. for this? Thanks Mike |
#28
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Hi Mike
should work, I dob't know as I like dish processing, I use Kodak hypo clear, my personal method is develop, stop, 2 bath fix then Hypo clear for 5 minutes, I leave out the pre hypo clear wash, the only reason is to make the Hypo clear last longer, then at the end of the printing session wash for 40 minutes, the nova clip should be able to hold down the paper, personally I would leave out the pre wash aid wash, go straight from 2 bath fixing to hypo clear, then wash, it means you need fresh wash aid every session, but Hypo clear is reasonably cheap, and the packet makes 3.5 litres, of stock which is diluted at 1/4 so it goes a long way, and I see no reason why Wash aid shouldn't be fine without the pre wash, I know Kodad, on the packet, states that the ist wash can be left, and I would assume that wash aid is pretty much the same type, they all seem to be. Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#29
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Tony very kindly sent me 5 sheets of 8x10. I've not had time to do a lot with it yet, but first impressions are mixed.
I've never used a warmtone paper before - at first I thought it had fixer stains! I prefer as cool a paper white as possible so interesting to see something different. I actually really like the texture of the surface. Yes you can see a slight sheen, but it's not unpleasant. However yes it does seem that the blacks are affected, and that the sharpness is affected also, but by the texture. I made some 6x6 contacts and the negative I used was too detailed. I need to find a different image to try - perhaps a head shot portrait? When I get a chance I will try some still lifes in 8x10. I think that will look good. |
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