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> Warm tone RC recommendations? |
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#11
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I liked the Ilford warmtone papers but I did find that the Warmtone developer went off very quickly while still in the container once it had been opened. This eventually led me to returning to the normal MG developer.
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Cheers Vincent - Not afraid of the dark |
#12
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Some time ago I made a comparison of printing the same image with two different papers, two different developers, and with or without selenium and sepia toning (seperately and in combination). The test included Ilford Warmtone RC paper and Fotospeed WarmTone developer. You can see the results here:
https://filmphotography.blog/2017/05...rkroom-prints/
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#13
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I've some odd sheets of 80's Ilford RC Warm Tone paper in the darkroom, that I keep meaning to try out.
I also have the required chemicals to make up a Warm Tone developer as well, so I'll do that just before trying the w/t paper. Here's the much referred to formula: http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photogr...rs/devID78.htm And I was just wondering if it is possible to convert a standard paper developer, like multigrade or D72, that I use, by just adding a bit more of one chemical. I'd have to check, but I think it is the bromide that adds the warmth in a WT developer. Can anyone confirm this thought? Terry S P.S. I have also just read the following interesting post, where the use of Selenium Toner, after developing the print, is mentioned by a number of posters: https://www.photrio.com/forum/thread...prints.130301/ Last edited by Terry S; 1st October 2021 at 01:19 PM. |
#14
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The easiest way for getting a real warm print is Lith printing. This requires paper which is able to lith, and Foma does. If the subject fits this process, the result is wonderful. And it is a rather simple process, no stinking sulfide, no bleaching, nothing. Only careful lab work, and a Lith developer like Moersch easy Lith.
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#15
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Quote:
It's just like 'normal printing', but with different paper and chemicals - that's all! Terry S |
#16
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Lith tends to uneven development. And the developing is longish, up to half an hour. But mostly you end with five or ten minutes. It counts to tilt the tray up and down all the time, a pencil between table and tray may help.
Beside this, it is a normal process. |
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