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  #11  
Old 24th September 2018, 11:49 PM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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Originally Posted by MikeH View Post
Kodak is quite stern in their instructions not to pre-rinse to warm the tank. It's a hard habit for me to break. Because the Jobo solution volume is so low and aeriates the developer, Kodak recommends 1 shot and toss.
The Eastman Kodak Z-131 manual, 'Using Kodak Alaris Flexicolor Chemicals, page 3-6, describes 'Optional Warm-Up tempered water bath or hot air'. It goes on to recommend 'Tube is loaded with film and ready for processing. Determine the best time by calibrating the tube. See Process Control and Adjustment. Do not immerse the film in a warm water pre-soak. Warm-up step is done by warming the outside of the tube with hot air or in a tempered water bath.'
My old friend Roger King of King Concepts, former manufacturers of the Image Maker and Enterprise processors in Minneapolis USA, found that Eastman Kodak, Rochester, were using an Enterprise processor for testing ageing samples of negative film from the parent roll in the laboratory with two temperature-controlled pre-rinses, each of 1m30s, before the developer. These samples were therefore processed under highly standardised conditions but a variation in carryover (if the number of films was altered) would also vary dilution, so this technique might not be applicable to pictorial processing.
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  #12  
Old 29th October 2018, 08:46 AM
tapio tapio is offline
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Originally Posted by Car Mad Dave View Post

So here's the dumb question - if I'm using constant rotation do I still use the standard C-41 time of 3:15? I've read a lot about B&W constant agitation in rotary processors re adjustments needed when moving from intermittent to constant agitation but nothing seen re C-41.
If 3:15 is the correct time for rotary processing, then wouldn't the same time used with intermittent agitation give insufficient density?
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  #13  
Old 30th October 2018, 09:35 PM
John King John King is offline
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Originally Posted by tapio View Post
If 3:15 is the correct time for rotary processing, then wouldn't the same time used with intermittent agitation give insufficient density?
Apparently not. It goes against all common sense but intermittent agitation seems to work as well as rotary.
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  #14  
Old 9th December 2018, 06:19 AM
MikeH MikeH is offline
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Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
Mike, what is SM solution? Is it the equivalent of a stabilizer? As far as I am aware the last stage should be stabilizer to prevent "bugs" attacking the film's dyes later.

Thanks

Mike
I haven't been on the forum for 8 months, my loss. So the Flexicolor Final rinse (SM for small volume) is intended to be used, after a thorough wash. This has a biocide and wetting agent. It is free from formaldehyde, so eliminated exposure risk.
I believe, that the latest version, of Flexicolor stabilizer, is formaldehyde free. Stabilizer allows mini lab machines, to operate without a water wash. There are 3 counter-current Stabilizer baths before the film is dried. This is how to get film through a minilab in 7 1/2 minutes.
In the US, the Tetenal kits we see are not as nice as what is offered in the EU. Everything is. Developer, Blix, and some sort of crystals, that when dissolved in water, is the final rinse. This stuff tends to re crystallize on the dry film.
Nothing at all wrong with using stabilizer as the final bath after washing.
Someday I will make it to the UK without my wife taking me to every (quite wonderful) museum. There's a lot more options and shops in Europe, here the internet has wiped out most camera stores.
I still pre-rinse, I fill my Jobo CPP-2 with 101F water from a thermostatic mixing valve. I pre heat the solutions in a regular microwave, to get close to 100 in 600mL or the 1L bottles. I'm ready to go in 5-10 minutes.
Last night did the same with 3 120 rolls of TMY 2, XTOL stock at 75F, darkroom was at 63F so I warmed up the drum with 2 pre rinses.
I love darkroom work, I have been having fun with Fujichrome. I use the Fuji 6X stuff from Europe. I've used the Tetenal kits and have had great results as well.
Best Regards from the frigid Great Plains, Iowa City Iowa USA.
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  #15  
Old 9th December 2018, 06:21 AM
MikeH MikeH is offline
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Originally Posted by John King View Post
Apparently not. It goes against all common sense but intermittent agitation seems to work as well as rotary.
I agree on all counts.
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  #16  
Old 9th December 2018, 05:23 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is online now
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Thanks MikeH for the comprehensive reply.

Mike
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  #17  
Old 13th December 2018, 07:10 PM
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Miha Miha is offline
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Originally Posted by Car Mad Dave View Post
However, it was a real pain to "manually" maintain temps at 38C so I'm probably going to go the tempered bath / rotary processor (aka JOBO) route in the future.
Before you go out and spend a fortune on all this equipment, have a look at my simple solution that works like a charm: Nova heater and an aquarium pump, all S/H:

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  #18  
Old 13th December 2018, 07:57 PM
John King John King is offline
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Default Home made processor

I would not be too keen on total immersion of a NOVA heater. The end of heating tube with the cable and thermostat is designed to WORK OUTSIDE OF THE WATERBATH....not fully submerged.

Each to their own, but water and mains electricity don't make the best bedfellows. A fish tank heater is submersable, but I would not risk a NOVA heating element even if it had additional waterproofing.
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  #19  
Old 13th December 2018, 08:05 PM
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Miha Miha is offline
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I would not be too keen on total immersion of a NOVA heater. The end of heating tube with the cable and thermostat is designed to WORK OUTSIDE OF THE WATERBATH....not fully submerged.

Each to their own, but water and mains electricity don't make the best bedfellows. A fish tank heater is submersable, but I would not risk a NOVA heating element even if it had additional waterproofing.
I'm afraid this is wrong. Have a look at what NOVA say: https://www.theimagingwarehouse.com/...otronic-Heater
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  #20  
Old 13th December 2018, 11:36 PM
John King John King is offline
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They mean the tube with the element is fully submersible not the thermostatic housing. In a nova processor the thermostatic adjuster is outside the tank whilst the glass tube is inside. The seal between the tank and the device is a close fitting rubber ring. These are designed for the factory made processors not a home made lash up

If you want to risk electrocution, who am I to stop you? Have you seen the price of a funeral recently!
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