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> Darkening green foliage |
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#11
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Thanks, gentlemen. I have thought of getting magenta and will probably to find a used one and give it a try. I think the clearer answer that many of you suggested is that I haven't been precise enough in what I'm looking for. I need to look more closely at the specific shade of green I am interested in darkening. I also need to consider that I have made most of my judgments about success or failure in the winter, when there really isn't much variety of foliage to experiment with! I think I have been basing most of my opinions on the very dark green of holly-like plants and on Spanish moss--which may not really be green at all!
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#12
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If you just want to do a quick test could the higher grades i.e. 4.5 or 5 of Ilford or similar multigrade enlarger filters be used? I presume you have one of those to hand just for a trial. They are deep magenta coloured. It should give you a clue as to whether it would work.
Bill |
#13
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I've noted often that foliage comes out surprisingly dark when photographed with blue sensitive materials such as lith film, graded paper, and X-ray film. Perhaps a dark blue 47b filter could duplicate the effect on panchromatic film. And I would use a polariser to knock out specular reflections on leaves in order to dull them down.
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The word Photography first uttered and defined by its author Sir John Herschel at Somerset House, London on the evening of March 14, 1839: quote "Photography or the application of the Chemical rays of light to the purpose of pictorial representation" unquote. |
#14
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Quote:
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Mitch http://photomi7ch.blogspot.com/ If you eliminate the impossible whatever remains no matter how improbable must be the truth. |
#15
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Darkening green foliage
In a similar vein to others, the direction to go is towards blue filtering. However, the best results will be obtained using Ortho film. If you look at Atget's rendering of foliage and stone compared people photographing the same subject with modern panchromatic film:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomgore/431893329/in/set-72157601287145579/">Atget re-photographed</a>
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David, d.s.allen, fotograf dsallenberlin@gmail.com http://dsallen.carpentier-galerie.de |
#16
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Choice of filter
Have you thought of looking on the HOYA website? They show a photograph taken without a filter and one with. This applies to all their Black & White filters as well as colour. There will be something to learn here even if using other makes of filters. But, to my eye, their results with the filter seem to be a little over stated leaving me a little disappointed with my own results. It does go some of the way to explaining with text.
I don't have their web address but use the MSN search engine on my computer. This works for me! Last edited by AlanJones; 9th March 2012 at 10:38 AM. Reason: additional info |
#17
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Have you thought about exposing the statue as if you were exposing for skin - Zone VI (or even Zone VII) and then printing down the tones in the foliage when you print them? I find it hard to imagine a wall of foliage the same tone as Memorials. This method would give you brighter highlights on the foliage but again that can be printed down.
It was just a thought. Orthochromatic film would definitely do it too. Ilford's SFX is excellent for graveyards with a lighter red filter than they recommend - it just gives a mild infra-red effect. Phil |
#18
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You could also try a blue filter to mimick orthochromatic film, something I'm intending to try with a recently aquired filter for my Hasselblad when shooting old buildings to expand the shadow details.
There's some information on this approach in the Ansel Adams series. Steve |
#19
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Yes but, foliage being foliage reacts to light and gives off a lot of infra red light(which is why your IR film works with red filters in an exagerated manner). So using a red filter lightens the foliage relative to whats around it. So what is really needed is a film with extended blue sensitivity(or reduced red sensitivity) and use a blue filter which is what Maris is getting at in his reply.
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#20
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